Comic book pressing is one of the most effective ways to improve the appearance and grade of a book without using any chemicals or invasive restoration. At its simplest, pressing is the process of removing bends, ripples, and dents so the comic lies flatter and sharper. For new collectors, think of it as carefully ironing wrinkles out of paper — but with professional equipment designed to protect your book. When done correctly, pressing can make a comic look dramatically better and, in many cases, increase its market value.
The heat pressing process relies on three key ingredients: controlled heat, steady pressure, and the right amount of time. Instead of everyday tools like clothes irons or heavy weights, professional collectors use specialized press machines that apply even heat and pressure across the entire surface. This careful balance ensures the paper fibers relax and reset without damaging the ink, staples, or gloss finish. Beginners can expect to see defects like spine waves, corner bends, and stacking curls improve after a proper press.

Following the order of operations when pressing comic books is critical because each step prepares the book for the next, and performing them out of sequence can permanently lock in defects, weaken paper fibers, or create new damage that cannot be reversed. Inspection prevents wasted effort on books that cannot be safely improved, while documentation establishes a clear condition baseline. Dry cleaning and stain removal must occur before humidity and heat, as pressing first can set dirt and oils deeper into the paper. Humidification makes fibers pliable, which is essential for effective dent removal and successful pressing. Pressing too early, skipping rest periods, or rushing storage and shipping increases the risk of reversion, gloss damage, or warping. In short, the process is cumulative and technical; respecting the order ensures consistent results, protects the book’s structural integrity, and preserves maximum collectible value, as outlined in my 2025 book, Comic Book CPR: First Edition.
Pressing isn’t just about machines — it’s also about the space you work in. Paper is highly sensitive to temperature and humidity, which means the environment around your press can directly affect your results. The ideal range for pressing is 70–75°F (21–24°C) with a relative humidity of 40–50%. This range keeps the paper fibers flexible enough to relax during pressing, but not so damp that they swell or wrinkle.
If your room is too humid, the paper can absorb excess moisture, which often leads to problems like spine waves, rippling, or even mold growth if books are left unchecked. On the other hand, if your environment is too dry, the paper becomes brittle and less responsive to pressing, which increases the risk of tears, split spines, or color rub.
Another important concept is reversion — this happens when a book looks great right after pressing but slowly begins to “bounce back” to its previous shape. Reversion is often caused by pressing in unstable conditions where the temperature or humidity fluctuates. A consistent environment ensures that when the fibers are reset during pressing, they stay that way.
· Digital hygrometer/thermometer – to monitor temperature and humidity.
· Dehumidifier or humidifier – to keep relative humidity steady around 40–50%.
· Stable room temperature (70–75°F) – avoid hot attics, garages, or damp basements.
· Air purifier– keeps dust and particles away from books during cleaning and pressing.
· No direct sunlight – sunlight can cause heat fluctuations and fade inks.
· Climate consistency – don’t move books in and out of humid vs. dry spaces during pressing.
· Avoid “problem rooms” – open loft areas, high foot traffic zones, kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms all cause big swings in humidity and should never be used for pressing or storing comics.
After pressing, the paper fibers of a comic are in a “reset” state. They’ve been relaxed and flattened by heat and pressure, but they need time in a stable environment to fully settle. If you rush a book straight to grading or toss it back into an unstable storage space, you risk defects slowly returning.
Here’s what we recommend:
· Cooling/Settling Period: Let your freshly pressed book rest for at least 24–48 hours in a controlled environment before bagging and boarding. This allows the paper fibers to stabilize naturally at room conditions. Some advanced pressers give high-value books a full 3–5 days before handling or shipping.
· Environment: Keep the book in a 70–75°F room with 40–50% RH (same as your pressing setup). Avoid humid basements, hot attics, or rooms with fluctuating air conditions. Stability is the key to preventing reversion.
· Flat, Supported Storage: Store the comic flat between clean, dry backing boards (no pressure, just support) or inside a bag and board with a full-size backer. Some collectors stack a light, even weight (like another flat board) on top to encourage the book to stay flat while it settles.
· Avoid Immediate Shipment: Mailing right after pressing is risky — comics can be exposed to heat, humidity, or pressure during transit, which may undo your work. Waiting a few days before packaging helps the fibers “remember” their pressed state.
· Longer Holds for Problem Books: If the comic had severe waves, stacking curls, or stubborn dents, give it a bit more rest — up to a week — before grading. Patience here means better long-term results.
· Simple press (minor bends/waves): Wait 2–3 days.
· Heavy press (major ripples/curls): Wait 5–7 days.
· Always ship in stable climate: Avoid mailing during extreme hot or humid weather if possible.

You will need basic comic book pressing equipment and supplies that can be purchased online. This recommended list of products includes press machine options and supplies for cleaning your comics. Most products can be substituted at your local hardware store or department store like Walmart or Target. All links will take you straight to Amazon or Ebay. As an Ebay and Amazon Associate, we earn income from qualifying purchases. Support this site by reordering your supplies from our recommended products page!
Support this website - Buy your comic book pressing and comic book dry cleaning products online at Amazon through our recommended products page.

1. Identify books that are too fragile or have too many unpressable defects. PRO TIP! Color-breaking creases, ink loss, or brittle paper can’t be fixed by pressing.

2. Document the book’s condition to track progress. PRO TIP! Take clear shots under good light; clients appreciate strong before/after records.

6. Apply controlled heat and pressure to flatten defects. Warning: Press at safe temperatures (around 130–160°F) — overheating risks gloss bubbling, flaring, warping, fusion. Always allow a suitable wait time of 12-24 hrs. before removing from press machine.

7. Let the book rest for several days and monitor for defects returning. PRO TIP! Store in bag/board flat for 2–5 days; unstable climates cause reversion.

8. Record the results for comparison and grading prep. PRO TIP! Side-by-side before/after photos prove your work and protect against disputes.

9. Bag, board, and keep the book in a stable environment. Warning: Avoid basements, attics, or kitchens — heat and humidity swings cause reversion.

10. Send the book for grading safely once fully settled. PRO TIP! Use sturdy Gemini mailers or CGC-approved boxes to prevent shipping damages. ALWAYS double box your shipments to a client or third party grading to CGC or CBCS.
Glow in the dark comics will glow brighter after pressing. The heat reactivates the glow crystals. Die cut or embossed comic books will require lighter pressure. The following comic books have been tested 100% safely under heat press conditions:
· Acetate
· Ballpoint pen signature
· Chromium
· Die cut
· Embossed
· Foil Editions
· Gatefold
· Glow-in-the-Dark
· Holograms
· Holofoils
· Jeweler Inserts
· Lenticular
· Permanent marker signature
· Polybagged (remove from bag first!)
· Silver or gold edition cardstock foils
· Sharpie marker signature
· Subscription inserts
· Pencil and ink sketch
· Thick cardstock
· Twisted glued spine (Pressable, but difficulty level is high)

There are vintage comic books too brittle or fragile for comic book pressing. Cover type and spine integrity is very important for a safe and successful press. Please be sure to review the unpressable defects list and photo examples. Do not risk further damaging a book, which wastes time, money, and valuable pressing resources. Comic books which have shattered, buckled, crumbled, or been destroyed under heat press:
· Acrylic paint pens
· Acrylic sketches/remarks
· Brittle pages
· Detached staples
· Jeweled covers
· Mold (Contaminates workspace and equipment)
· Oversized books larger than press machine or stacking layers
· Paint marker signatures
· Remarks done with paint markers
· Shredded Spines
· Spine splits exceeding 1"
· Textured (Artist Edition)
· Treasury Edition


We present to you the best options available to you for comic book pressing. Choosing the right comic book press is one of the most important investments you’ll make as a collector or comic book presser. A press machine uses heat and pressure to relax paper fibers and flatten defects. The goal is to mimic how the book originally sat at the printer—without damaging the cover gloss, staples, or interior pages. Let’s break down what each machine does and how it can benefit you the most:
If you truly don't know where to start, send us an email to kaptainmyke@gmail.com

Use the pressure adjustment knob for pressing books at the correct pressure.
1. Counterclockwise reverses pressure. Clockwise increases pressure.
2. Control adjustment knob with main hand.
3. PRO TIP: Use weak handto press handle clamp down.
4. Your weak hand should easily lock in the closed position. If there is resistance, turn knob counterclockwise.
5. It takes time and practice to master this technique through experience.
6. Always use light pressure on the clamp.
Do not turn adjustment knob while press machine is in the closed and lockedposition.
It should be noted that on most dry mount press machines, the adjustment knob located at top center of unit has 2 adjustment knobs. The larger outside knob you will turn counterclockwise to loosen the inside smaller knob. The inside smaller knob you will turn counterclockwise to increase pressure. You will turn the lower outside knob clockwise to tighten up the inside smaller knob. It’s the opposite of how a clamshell and swing arm press machine operates.

You will see staple dents on your backer boards if you use too much pressure. Too much pressure causes a crushed spine, staple push, and color rub on comic books. You also risk staple dents through every page of the comic book as well. Light staple push with no color rub can be fixed with another press. If there is color rub from the staples, this damage is permanent. It is recommended to use two backer boards at centerfold for comic books with large staple prongs. If there is a crushed spine due to no centerfold protection layer, or excessive pressure, this can likely be fixed by placing centerfold protection and repressing with less pressure.

Comic books manufactured from 2010 to present day can sometimes include a digital code insert page for online reading. This can easily imprint a square on the back cover and surrounding pages. If there is a digital code present inside comic book, always place insert protection before and after any insert page (65 lb cardstock paper). Do not reuse stacking materials for insert protection. It is now scrap paper after 1 use.
· 1" BLACK OR WHITE SQUARE - 1 sheet of 65 lb cardstock before and after insert page.
· 1" BLUE SQUARE - 1 sheet of 110 lb cardstock after page. 1 sheet 65 lb cardstock before page. Typically found on last page of most DC Comics which uses a thicker type of digital code insert.
· 2" BLACK AND RED SQUARE - 1 sheet of 100 lb cardstock before and after page. Typically found on last page. Use very light pressure or you will damage the cover.
INKJET COPY PAPER WEIGHT
1 sheet of inkjet copy paper is 20 lb weight. If you do not have any cardstock paper you can attempt to create the same thickness and weight for compensation. PRO TIP: 1 sheet of 65 lb cardstock equals approximately 3 sheets of 20 lb copy paper. The rigidity is not the same as a sheet of cardstock but should block imprints from a digital code square.

PLATE SIZES
• 9” x 12” x 1/8” thick
• 15” x 15” x 1/16” thick
• 12” x 12” x 0.63” thick (Tusy brand clamshell press)
PARTS LIST
• Latex Gloves
• Plates (2)
• 3M Sanding Sponge Blocks 60 Grit – 220 Grit
• Any type of sandpaper 60 Grit – 220 Grit
• Paper Towels
• Wipes
• Cardboard surface
SAND THE TOP PLATEN AND STEEL PLATES
To prep, once you have your heat press machine, you will need to use gloves and sandpaper to completely smooth over the surface of the top platen of machine to remove any machine scores, burrs, scratches or other imperfections during manufacturing and paint coating.

INTERIOR PAPERSTOCK (INTERIOR PAGES OF BOOK)
· 65 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Primary stacking layer, underneath covers or after pages 1 or 2)
· 110 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Staple protection, insert protection)
· 20 LB INKJET COPY PAPER (Secondary stacking layer, underneath covers or after pages 1 or 2)
· SILICONE RELEASE PAPER (Dent removal, before any insert envelope adhesive backing strip)
· NONE (Reset underhanging covers)
CENTERFOLD PROTECTION (CENTER OF BOOK)
· MAGAZINE-SIZE BACKER BOARD (Single)
· TWO MAGAZINE-SIZED BACKER BOARDS (Double)
· FULL-BACK (Substitute for using two magazine-sized backer boards)
· 65 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Prestige Format, Squarebounds, Giant Sized glued spines)
EXTERIOR PAPER STOCK (OUTSIDE BOOK COVERS)
· 20 LB INKJET COPY PAPER (All press stages on all comic books and magazines)
· SILICONE RELEASE PAPER (Dent removal)
· 110 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Die cut covers, gimmick covers, embossed covers)
EXTERIOR CARD STOCK (OUTSIDE BOOK COVERS)
· MAGAZINE-SIZE BACKER BOARD (Top and bottom outermost stacking layers)
INSERT PROTECTION (BEFORE AND AFTER EACH INSERT PAGE)
· 65 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Recommended for most inserts)
· 110 LB CARDSTOCK PAPER (Recommended for DC Comics digital code squares)
· 20 LB INKJET COPY PAPER (5 sheets, if you do not have 65 lb cardstock paper)
EXTERIOR RIGIDITY (OUTSIDE THE EXTERIOR CARD STOCK LAYERS)
· STAINLESS STEEL PLATES (x2) (All press stages on all comic books and magazines)
· ALUMINUM PLATES (x2) (All press stages on all comic books and magazines)
· ½” or ¼” THICK FOAM BOARD (Flattening spines – cover side down, staples up)
· THREE MAGAZINE BACKER BOARDS (x2) (Recommended if you don’t have plates)
Place the book cover with the most defects facing up towards top platen of press machine. Most books do not require flipping. Thicker books like magazine sized comic books will require flipping and repeating Basic Press, due to the slow transfer of heat to the other side of book. If flipping is required, place the book cover with the most defects facing down first before the flip/repeat.
WHEN TO FLIP BOOKS, AND WHY
Most 32-page comic books do not need to be flipped (unless there are a lot of defects on both covers). Plenty of heat exchange permeates from the top cover through the whole book to the bottom cover within 10-15 minutes of heat. Certain books require flipping and repeating the heat press cycle process to properly heat the other side of the comic book. When dealing with a stacking curl, you place the book in press machine first with the bend facing up towards the top platen (typically, the front cover). When the first heat cycle is done and you flip the book, now the stacking curl bend is facing down. You do not have to replace all the interior stacking layers during the flip. We do this so when the book is in a state of cooldown in the press machine for 18-24 hours, this keeps the bend facing down the longest while the paper stabilizes in its new position. Do keep in mind that these books may have to be repressed a second or even a third time for truly stubborn bends or folds when dealing with thicker binding.
Let’s review which types of books should be flipped to repeat the heat cycle on the other side of the book:
· Comics with a large number of various defects on both covers
· Comic books that exceed 32 pages
· Stacking Curls (any)
· Squarebound glued and/or stapled spines
· Magazine-sized comic books
· Prestige Format graphic novel comic books
After the dry cleaning step, you must humidify the comic book before heat pressing. Learn how to make your own humidity tank for less than $45.
Using the Order of Operations, you will always dry clean first, then place the book inside a humidity tank, perform localized dent removal, and then finally inside the press machine.

Turn ON the press machine. Follow the guidelines found in Comic Book CPR based off the printing year and type of interior pages. Most comic books can safely be pressed for 10 minutes at 150F.

Use the pressuer adjustment knob to control the amount of pressure applied to your comic book. It is helpful to adjust the knob with your strong hand and close the press machine with your off hand. The machine should close easily with light pressure. Never use firm hard pressure.

Place your bottom plate on press machine.
For comic books with flat matte interior pages, apply a damp cotton round directly to defects on cover. Apply water to a dry cotton round. Sandwich the wet cotton round in between two dry cotton rounds. Squeeze out the water using two dry cotton rounds. The Hot Shot can be applied to interior covers and pages as well.

Follow the stacking formula guidelines found in Comic Book CPR. Hold the book with your off hand and push the stacking layers in as close to the spine as possible. This procedure is called "cupping".

Place a magazine sized backer board on bottom plate. Do not reuse backer boards with staple dents.

Place a sheet of clean 20 lb copy paper on backer board.

Place the comic book with all interior stacking layers on exterior copy paper layer.

Place a clean sheet of 20 lb copy paper directly on comic book with interior stacking layers.

Place a magazine sized backer board on top exterior paperstock layer.

Place the optional top plate on your book stack if you choose to use a top plate. The author of Comic Book CPR personally recommends using a top plate for your pressing.

Close the press machine with your off hand. The press machine should close easily without strain. Adjust the pressure adjustment knob using your main hand to reach the desired amount of pressure. Too little is ineffective. Too much can cause waviness and sunken staples.

If you have a clamshell press machine or a swing arm press machine, you may use an optional C-Clamp to equalize the pressure on the front edge of machine.

Make sure your pressing room environment is at 70-75F temperature with 40-50% humidity. Allow the preset duration to count down. Once the machine has completed the duration, you will hear a loud alarm sound. Turn off the machine once the preset duration has completed.

If a comic book or magazine has a stacking curl, over 32 pages long, or has both a glued and stapled spine, flip the book over and repeat steps. You do not have to replace the interior stacking layers when flipping the book.

After the heat pressing procedures have completed, turn OFF the press machine. You will now wait 24 hours before removing comic book or magazine from press machine. If the book has thin glossy interior paper, you may remove the book from press machine in 4 hours instead of waiting the standard 24 hours.

Carefully slide the book out of the press machine once the required recommended wait time has expired.

Perform inspection and photography. Use a photo collage app to create side by side "before and after" photos to compare results. Some comics and magazine will require repeat pressings to achieve desired results. Keep all pressed comic books in the same pressing room environment for at least 5-7 days before storing or shipping.

Sometimes a comic becomes oversaturated—either from improper humidification, storage in damp conditions, or accidental water exposure. Oversaturation causes the paper fibers to swell unevenly, creating rippling across the cover and pages, often most visible along the spine as spine waves. These defects make the book look warped and unstable, and if not corrected properly, they can return even after pressing.
For all cold pressing, make sure you are using aluminum, galvanized, or stainless-steel plates to prevent rust from forming. Rust will appear on the book and your plates when using normal cold rolled steel plates.
1. Controlled Oversaturation (12–24 hours)
“Fight fire with fire.” Place the comic back into a humidity tank with a gallon of boiled water for 12–24 hours. This step may sound counterintuitive, but the goal is to re-soften the paper fibers evenly throughout the book. By bringing the book to a uniformly pliable state, you “reset” the paper, making it easier to reshape.
2. Cold Press (48 hours)
Transfer the oversaturated book directly into the press machine with interior stacking layers and press without heat for 2 full days. Cold pressing allows the fibers to slowly flatten under pressure while excess moisture dissipates gradually. Because no heat is applied, the fibers are not “sealed” too soon—this gives them time to relax and bond back into a flat, permanent position.
3. Final Humidity Tank (1 hour)
After the cold press, return the book to the humidity tank for a short 1-hour session. This re-introduces a mild level of flexibility into the fibers, preparing the comic for the final press.
4. Normal Heat Press (24 hours)
Perform a standard heated press and afterwards leave the book in the press machine for 24 hours before removing. This final step locks the flatness into place, sealing the fibers and ensuring the rippling and spine waves do not return.
Cold pressing works because it gives time for the paper fibers to realign and compress evenly under pressure, without the sudden expansion and contraction that heat can cause. When a book is oversaturated, applying heat too early can trap moisture, create new waves, or even damage the foil and inks. By pressing cold for an extended period, the fibers dry flat and stabilize naturally. Then, when you follow with a normal humidification and heat press, the fibers are already “trained” to stay flat — making the fix permanent. To learn more about the procedure, read Comic Book CPR: First Edition in Chapter 17 and follow the instructions for “Oversaturated Books”.
Comic Book CPR: First Edition is a giant 388 page comprehensive beginner’s guide to cleaning and pressing comic books, written for collectors who want to improve grades, eye appeal, and long-term preservation without relying on third-party services. The book walks readers step by step through inspection, dry cleaning, humidity control, pressing techniques, defect identification, and risk avoidance, using clear language, full-color photos, charts, and real-world examples. Designed to help readers recognize pressable versus unpressable defects and avoid costly mistakes, it provides a practical foundation for safely improving comic books at home while protecting their collectible value.
Love this free online guide? This is only a fraction of the content inside Comic Book CPR: First Edition! Learn advanced techniques used by leading professionals in the comic book pressing industry. Featuring over 30 exclusive comic book pressing stacking layer formulas.
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