COMIC BOOK DENT REMOVAL
The optimal dent removal moment
Dents can be frustrating and stubborn to work with. Fortunately, most defects are removed during the regular press stage. Following the Order of Operations, it is recommended to perform the humidification first and perform dent removal before comic book pressing.
· The humidity tank assists with dent removal on covers.
· The optimal moment for dent removal is immediately after the humidity tank for tack iron or roller ball bearing dent removal procedure. The cover is super malleable during this phase.
· Inspect both covers of book when book is pulled from humidity tank.
· For books printed from 1945-1999 with flat matte interior pages – If you see any dents or creases that appear visible under light glare, apply a Hot Shot and use a 1.5” ball bearing with a sheet of dry copy paper or SRP Paper on cover, and a sheet of SRP Paper and 65lb cardstock paper underneath cover or page being treated, to smooth out the dent.
· A sealing tack iron is optional at 212Ffor deep denting and indentations but may not be necessary. Try rolling a ball bearing across indentions first before resorting to iron.
· Proceed to perform the basic comic book pressprocedure following all stacking layer guidelines from the corresponding formula found in Comic Book CPR: First Edition.
· Any dent that has a color breaking crease cannot be completely removed. If the paper or cover is damaged from broken paper fibers on a deep crease or dent, it cannot be completely removed. Spine ticks with color breaking creases and deep dents with color rub cannot be removed. Blunted spines and corner crunches are very difficult to completely remove sometimes due to the binding or twisting of staples.
Humidification Before Dent Removal
When you’re trying to remove dents, divots, or other surface impressions in a comic book, the paper needs to be a little more flexible than it is in its dry state.
Why humidify?
Paper fibers are stiff and brittle when dry. Introducing controlled humidity relaxes those fibers, making the paper more pliable. This helps the dented area respond better to pressing and reduces the risk of the fibers breaking or the ink flaking during the process.
How it’s done (in safe, controlled form):
The book is placed in a humidity tank. The book is left for a short, controlled period (often minutes, not hours) until the paper takes on just enough flexibility. The goal isn’t to “wet” the comic — it’s to let the paper absorb a trace amount of moisture in the air. Too much exposure leads to oversaturation, swelling, warping, or even staining. Once the paper is properly relaxed, the book can be moved into a heat press where gentle pressure smooths the defect.
Think of humidification as “softening up” the fibers so the dent removal and pressing process can reshape them safely.
HUMIDIFY COMIC BOOK FIRST
Dent removal should be done immediately after using the Humidity Tank, but right before comic book pressing.
COMIC BOOK DENT REMOVAL METHODS (CLICK ON EACH IMAGE)
BALL BEARING METHOD
BALL BEARING METHOD
BALL BEARING METHOD
A smooth, hardened ball bearing is gently rolled over the dent while the paper is relaxed from humidity, allowing the fibers to rise back into place. The controlled, localized pressure targets the depression without flattening surrounding areas or disturbing gloss.
BONE FOLDER METHOD
BALL BEARING METHOD
BALL BEARING METHOD
A bone folder is carefully drawn across the affected area to massage the paper fibers back into alignment. Used with light pressure and proper humidity, it smooths shallow dents while minimizing the risk of creasing or surface damage.
C-NOTCH METHOD
BALL BEARING METHOD
C-NOTCH METHOD
Small, C-shaped notches are cut into cardstock stacking layers so they can slide past recessed staples and sit flush against the spine. This allows even pressure along the spine during pressing without the staples creating gaps or uneven compression.
CUT OUT METHOD
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
C-NOTCH METHOD
A square or rectangular opening is cut into a backer board to act as a shield while applying localized steam or humidity. This isolates moisture to a specific dent area, allowing targeted fiber relaxation without exposing the entire comic to humidity.
HOT SHOT METHOD
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
A lightly damp cotton round is placed directly over the dent to introduce focused moisture to the affected area. The book is then pressed, allowing heat and pressure to re-shape the relaxed fibers precisely where the defect exists.
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
FLATTEN CENTERFOLD
A thick foam board is placed beneath the centerfold so the staples compress safely into the foam during pressing. This cushions the staples, allowing the fold to flatten without driving metal through the cover or creating new defects.
FOLDS AND FLAPS
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
Learn how to safely apply localized moisture to relax folds and flaps before opening a comic book for pressing.
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
If you see nasty corner crunches, blunt spine trauma or any other crazy defects, don’t waste any time – perform the General Spine Trauma Method.
MOISTURE BARRIERS
GENERAL SPINE TRAUMA
MOISTURE BARRIERS
Learn to use moisture barriers as a shield while working on interior covers and pages. Always support the rest of book against a walled surface and work out dents or defects on a flat table surface.
STEAM GUNS
WRITING INDENTATIONS
MOISTURE BARRIERS
A steam gun is used to deliver brief, controlled bursts of moisture directly to a dented area to relax the paper fibers. When followed immediately by pressing, the localized steam allows the indentation to lift without exposing the entire book to humidity.
TACK IRON
WRITING INDENTATIONS
WRITING INDENTATIONS
A hobbyist tack iron is carefully applied to a targeted area to introduce controlled heat, often in combination with light moisture. This precise contact allows dents or stubborn impressions to be relaxed and reshaped without subjecting the entire comic to a full press cycle.
WRITING INDENTATIONS
WRITING INDENTATIONS
WRITING INDENTATIONS
Learn how to remove most writing indentations from comic book covers by applying all dent removal methods together.
COMMON TYPES OF COMIC BOOK PRESSABLE DENTS AND DIVOTS
Pressable Defects
When collectors talk about “pressable defects,” dents are some of the most common. They’re basically impressions that don’t break color but disrupt the flat surface of the cover or pages. Here are a few types:
Impact Dents
This happens when something bumps or presses against the cover — like another object in a box pressing too hard against it. They’re deeper than finger dents and sometimes have a “rim” around them.
Divots
Small, often round depressions, almost like tiny pockmarks. They’re often from something sharp pressing lightly into the book without tearing it.
Non-Color Breaking Creases – Wavy Bends
(sometimes mistaken for dents)
These are bends or folds that haven’t broken the ink, and they can usually be pressed out once the paper has been relaxed through humidification.
Key takeaway for beginners:
Humidification is about making the paper flexible enough for safe dent removal. Dents, divots, and finger impressions can usually be pressed out if done correctly — but without humidification, the risk of damaging the comic is much higher.
Different Types of Dents
Here are some common dents found on comic books:
· BLUNTED SPINE
· CORNER CRUNCH
· DEEP DENT
· DIVOT (PEBBLING)
· FINGER DENT (BEND)
· IMPACT DENT
· SPINE DENT
· SPINE TICK
· STACKING CURL
· STAPLE DENT
· WAVY BEND
Practice Books
Dent removal becomes easier with practice. You can create your own dents on dollar bin comics. Drop heavy objects on a comic book for deep dents. Bend corners forward to create spine trauma, or stack heavy objects on the raw book covers. You can practice removing writing indentationsby writing on a piece of paper placed on top of comic book cover using very hard pressure. Press a few comic books with a piece of dirt or dust particles on cover to practice removing divots.
WHY ALTERNATING DENT REMOVAL METHODS MATTER
Use all the tools in your comic book dent removal tool box
It’s important to alternate dent removal methods for any comic book that has a multitude of different defects. Each method addresses a different problem:
· Cut Out = prevents collateral damage.
· Hot Shot = softens surface fibers.
· Roller Ball Bearing = pushes out compressed dents.
· Steam gun = relaxes paper fibers for reshaping.
Alternating prevents over-saturation, overheating, or gloss loss — all of which graders will notice.
To reach a 9.8, your repairs must be invisible under angled light. Alternating methods lets you treat the dent in stages without overdoing it, preserving gloss and keeping the rest of the book stable.
But remember — if the dent broke color or crushed fibers too deeply, no method will make it a true 9.8. CGC’s graders are trained to spot press work, so the goal is to make the defect disappear naturally, not just “flatten it.”
Work Surface
For all methods, place one or two magazine-sized backer boards at centerfold to keep spine rigid. Place a clean sheet of 65 lb cardstock and SRP Paper directly underneath front and rear covers. Always place an assembled magazine backer board and bag underneath comic book. This creates a surface for steam use, rotating book on work surface, or using steam on spines at edge of table. This helps you maintain a careful handling routine as mentioned in Comic Book CPR.
KNOW THE LIMITATIONS OF COMIC BOOK PRESSING
Understanding the differences between pressable and unpressable defects
Knowing the limits of comic book pressing is just as important as knowing the process. After 30 years of collecting comic books and 10 years of pressing, we’ve seen a lot of beginners ruin good books by trying to fix defects that simply can’t be pressed out safely.
Color-Breaking Creases or Dents
If the ink has cracked or chipped along the crease, pressing will only flatten the paper — it won’t restore the missing ink. The white “color break” line will still be there. Example: A spine tick that shows white, even after pressing.
Deep Scratches or Gouges
If a dent actually scratched into the cover, leaving an abrasion, pressing won’t heal that cut. In fact, humidification plus pressing can sometimes make the scratch more obvious because it flattens surrounding areas.
Gloss or Ink Lift
Some glossy covers (especially modern ones) have fragile ink layers. Humidification + pressure can cause ink to lift or “ghost,” leaving dull patches. Example: A dark modern cover that suddenly shows a shiny or hazy spot after pressing.
Paper That’s Already Weak or Brittle
Golden Age and early Silver Age comics often have fragile paper. Even light humidification can make brittle pages curl, flake, or split.
Printer’s Crease
A printer’s crease is a manufacturing defect that happens while the comic is being made at the printer. Even if crease was pressed out, there is ink loss inside crease.
Tears Around Staples or Edges
If a dent runs into a staple or edge tear, pressing can worsen it by pulling the paper fibers apart. Example: Small edge tears that spread wider after being pressed flat.
Water-Stained or Tide Line Dents
If the dent came with moisture staining, pressing won’t remove the stain — and humidifying further can actually spread the discoloration. Example: Brownish tide lines along the cover edge.
General Rule of Thumb
1. Pressing Potential: If the damage is just impression-based (shallow dents, finger pressure, light divots)
2. Unpressable defects: If the damage involves loss of color, tears, stains, or broken fibers (could actually make it worse)
Small humble beginnings
For beginners, the safest practice is to start with modern books that have minor finger dents or stacking bends, since those respond beautifully to pressing. I wouldn’t recommend starting on older or high-value comics until you’ve practiced a lot on cheap ones.
Angle of Approach
Your angle of approach on dent removal depends on the type and cause of dent. Each type of dent requires a simple but effective procedure for removal. During this stage of dent removal, it may seem like the method isn't working. The tips found below will correct impacted areas of a comic book using the least invasive manner. This will aid in retaining the original muscle memory of the paper fibers during comic book pressing.
1. Remember to try non-invasive methods initially to minimize risks.
2. Determine if you need to flatten the centerfold first before any other procedure.
3. The"Hot Shot" method is a great start to any approach right before pressing.
4. Perform thebasic comic book press procedure.
5. If any persistent defects are still present after pressing, try the ball bearing and tack iron method.
6. Keep moisture, steam, and humidity to a minimum.
7. Simple pressure dents, finger dents, light bends, and wavy bends do not require special techniques prior to pressing. For vintage books, a Hot Shot is all that is needed.
8. For clarification: wavy bends, pressure dents and finger bends will press out naturally.
COMMON TYPES OF COMIC BOOK DENTS
BLUNTED SPINE
BLUNTED SPINE
BLUNTED SPINE
A blunted spine occurs when the spine edge becomes rounded or flattened from handling, shelving, or long-term pressure. This compression permanently deforms the paper fibers and cannot be corrected through cleaning or pressing, and it counts against grade.
CORNER CRUNCH
BLUNTED SPINE
BLUNTED SPINE
A corner crunch is severe compression damage where a corner is sharply crushed, often creating layered creases and broken fibers. Because the structural damage is permanent, pressing may offer minimal cosmetic improvement at best and the defect continues to count heavily against grade.
CORNER CRUNCH
BLUNTED SPINE
CORNER CRUNCH
A corner crunch is severe compression damage where a corner is sharply crushed, often creating layered creases and broken fibers. Because the structural damage is permanent, pressing may offer minimal cosmetic improvement at best and the defect continues to count heavily against grade.
DEEP DENT
FINGER BEND
CORNER CRUNCH
A deep dent is a pronounced indentation caused by strong pressure or impact that compresses the paper layers. While minor surface dents may be pressable, deep dents often involve fiber damage or ink disruption, making full correction unlikely and the defect typically counts against grade.
FINGER BEND
FINGER BEND
FINGER BEND
A finger bend is a shallow, curved bend caused by handling pressure from a finger or thumb, usually without breaking color. Because the paper fibers remain intact, finger bends are commonly pressable and often show strong improvement with proper humidification and pressing.
IMPACT DENT
FINGER BEND
FINGER BEND
An impact dent is a localized indentation caused by a sudden blow or contact with a hard object. Depending on depth and whether color is broken, impact dents may be partially correctable, but deeper examples often retain visible damage and still count against grade.
IMPACT DENT
IMPACT DENT
IMPACT DENT
An impact dent is a localized indentation caused by a sudden blow or contact with a hard object. Depending on depth and whether color is broken, impact dents may be partially correctable, but deeper examples often retain visible damage and still count against grade.
PEBBLING
IMPACT DENT
IMPACT DENT
Pebbling is a textured, dimpled surface effect caused by uneven pressure, moisture imbalance, or improper pressing materials. Once the paper surface is disrupted this way, the texture cannot be fully reversed and the defect typically counts against grade.
SPINE DENT
IMPACT DENT
SPINE DENT
A spine dent is a localized indentation along the spine caused by handling pressure, stacking, or contact with a hard edge. If color is not broken it may be pressable, but deeper spine dents often retain visible damage and continue to count against grade.
SPINE TICK
STAPLE DENT
SPINE DENT
A spine tick is a small crease or stress mark along the spine caused by handling or opening the book. Non–color-breaking spine ticks are often pressable, but color-breaking ticks are permanent and continue to count against grade.
STAPLE DENT
STAPLE DENT
STAPLE DENT
A staple dent is an indentation caused by pressure from the interior staple pressing outward against the cover. While light staple dents may be reduced with careful humidification and pressing, deeper impressions often remain visible and still count against grade.
WAVY BEND
STAPLE DENT
STAPLE DENT
A wavy bend is a smooth, undulating distortion caused by moisture imbalance or uneven storage pressure. When paper fibers are intact, wavy bends are often good candidates for improvement through proper humidification and pressing.
SHOP NOW FOR COMIC BOOK DENT REMOVAL TOOLS
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
1.5" Steel Ball Bearings are used for dent removal with SRP Paper and 65 lb cardstock paper.
BONE FOLDER
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
Bone folder scoring tool for folding creases and creating new centerfolds.
STEAM GUN
1.5" STEEL BALL BEARING
COTTON ROUNDS
Optional tool used primarily for spine dents, deep denting, and spine rolls. Should be used sparingly with caution.
COTTON ROUNDS
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
COTTON ROUNDS
Cotton Rounds are for basic dry cleaning and polishing covers or spines.
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
Primary dent removal tool. Recommended brands are O'Skool and Prolux. Use the minimum setting (212F)
SRP PARCHMENT PAPER
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
ANALOG OR DIGITAL TACK IRON
SRP Paper is used primarily now for dent removal with a ball bearing or tack iron. Most comic book pressing is not done with SRP Paper any longer, with only certain exceptions.
UP NEXT: HOW TO PRESS COMIC BOOKS
After dent removal comes heat pressing comic books
After humidification and dent removal, the comic book is now ready to be placed inside a heat press machine.
How to Press Comic Books
Read our FREE online guide that teaches beginners how to press comic books from home.
BUY COMIC BOOK CPR: SECOND EDITION NOW!
Learn the secrets of using Underlays to remove advanced defects from comic books.
Comic Book CPR: Second Edition is an advanced, professional-level guide designed for collectors and comic book pressers ready to tackle defects long considered impossible to fix. This 250 page edition focuses on the complete removal and correction of high-risk, advanced defects found in polybagged comics, holofoil and hologram prism covers, cardstock and die-cut covers, and subscription crease damage—books traditionally written off as lost causes. Central to this breakthrough approach is an all-new method using humidified paper underlays, allowing controlled fiber relaxation and precision pressure where standard techniques fail. Fully illustrated and process-driven, this book bridges the gap between hobbyist and professional results, redefining what is achievable in modern comic book cleaning and pressing. Written by Michael Frederik Sorensen and Gregory Defoor.
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