Please reach us at kaptainmyke@gmail.com if you cannot find an answer to your question.
Comic Book CPR is different because we offer a personalized experience for each customer. We take the time to understand your preferences and help you obtain the very absolute highest grades possible when pressing comic books yourself, or having us do it for you.
Our Facebook Group is very popular and active among 5000 members. Ask a question, or post your results to gain feedback from your peers. Purchase recommended comic book pressing equipment from our recommended products page found at https://comicbookcpr.com/recommended-products
Most of your commonly asked questions are answered at the top of our Facebook Group under "Announcements" or at the main website: http://bit.ly/2CqpuAM
PRESS ONE
1. Copy Paper $0.01
2. Underlay $0.01
3. 110 lb cardstock paper $0.05
4. Fullback $0.75 (REUSABLE)
5. 110 lb cardstock paper $0.05
6. Underlay $0.01
7. Copy Paper $0.01
8. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06 x2 for each insert (if present)
Total cost for press 1 with no inserts: $0.89
PRESS TWO
1. Copy Paper $0.01
2. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06
3. Fullback $0.75 (REUSABLE)
4. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06
5. Copy Paper $0.01
Total cost for press 2 with no inserts: $0.89
PRESS THREE
1. You will simply cycle the press machine power back on, without removing book or changing stacking layers. Once the press machine has met the preset temperature of 140F you will shut off the press machine immediately.
Total cost for press 3 with no inserts: $0.00
THE OLD WAY
In the original first edition of Comic Book CPR, using SRP and backer boards was around the same cost compared to the newly recommended regular standard comic press.
1. SRP $0.04
2. SRP $0.04
3. Backer Board $0.18
4. Backer Board $0.18
5. Backer Board $0.18
6. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06
7. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06
8. 65 lb cardstock paper $0.06
Total cost for original method with no inserts: $1.60 (flip and repeat)
Everything depends on your budget and what you feel comfortable with using. I will give you full disclosure here in this section for all avenues and price points so you can make your own informed decision. I prefer option 1, the 15" × 15" Clamshell press, for the digital control unit and built in alarm. Because it’s 15" × 15", it has a larger surface area for a better press.
The FancierStudio or Vevor 15x15 clamshell press machines are the most recommended by KaptainMyke for stain removal, amateur pressing and for beginners.
Most professional comic book pressers recommend the Seal brand dry mount press above all. The Tivor swing arm handle breaks off, and also requires regular adjusting of the bolts because they come loose over constant use.
Professionals and Experienced users both agree they prefer using Seal dry mount press machines. Check Ebay for Seal machines. The Seal brand press machines range in size. They can be either 15" x 18" for the Jumbo 160 or the Jumbo 210 unit is 15" x 22" in size. Both are super heavy, so shipping cost is expensive. Buy local!
This guide is written primarily using methods on a 15" x 15" Clamshell unit, but you can adjust your method accordingly depending on which unit you prefer.
All listed product recommendations can be found at https://comicbookcpr.com/recommended-products. This list is always updated with the most recent products. The links are FREE and take you directly to Amazon or Ebay.
If you are new to cleaning and pressing comics, don't even worry about it yet. (Trust me.) My team and I have discovered a set of exclusive methods to make stain removal and whitening much easier and safer on most comic books. There is still a lot that can go wrong if you aren't experienced with our exclusive methods. The Heat Overlay Press (HOP) Method and Blue Light LED (BLED) Method is intended for experiened pressers only. For more information, you will want a copy of "Comic Book Stain Removal and Whitening (2022)", written by KaptainMyke himself, Michael Frederik Sorensen.
Stain removal is not recommended if you are new to pressing. Stick to the basics as you learn and continue to grow your comic pressing hobby skills. Even experienced pressers should tread lightly with this topic. Removing tanning and foxing from a Golden Age or Silver Age book is not easy. It requires days or even weeks using a very slow process with a very steady hand. There is great risk to destroying the book, the gloss layer of covers, and lowering the overall value of book. We have developed a set of methods to make this easier and safer on comic books. There is still a lot that can go wrong if you aren't experienced with our exclusive methods. The Heat Overlay Press (HOP) Method and Blue Light LED (BLED) Method is intended for experiened pressers. Our methods are recommended for use only 2 or 3 times on an individual book. If you continue attempting stain removal methods you can go too far on a book and damage it permanently or get flagged for restoration.
You can build your very own Blue Light LED Light Box at home, as mentioned in the new book, "Comic Book Stain Removal and Whitening". The link can be found on our YouTube Channel: https://youtu.be/wJxFaM7UzTg?si=ApI2Nm2srxbMfD6t.
Tack irons are a valuable tool for dent removal and spine work. Tack irons can warp covers and pages if set too hot. 160-180F is the safe temperature rage in most cases. If your iron's lowest setting is still too hot, make sure to use extra sheets of copy paper and an included cloth sock over your iron to prevent scorching. Keep the dial down to a #2 or a #3 for most work. Take note which side is F and C for temperatures. Smooth, fast, circular and steady motions with a tack iron is safe. Constant heat applied on the same spot for 3-5 minutes or longer can damage the paper.
In 2023, Hangar 9 is no longer currently producing heat sealing tack irons. They are having a distribution problem and no one is making them for the company. There is a model on Amazon called "Prolux". The Prolux model's lowest setting is 212F. You will need to use extra sheets of copy paper and the included sock to lower the temperature a bit while using it. Do not leave the iron in any one spot on your comic books for a long period of time. Use quick, fast, circular motions. Make sure you are constantly checking the cover or page being treated. Paper burns at 450F but comic covers can melt or bubble up glossy modern age comics at 240F or 250F if you iron very slowly which is not recommended for this application. Older comics prior to 2002 should be fine at this lowest setting.
I recommend using 2 steel plates due to the process of even thermodynamic heat distribution and rigidity. This enables you to work with a totally flat and rigid top surface and bottom surface. The top plate holds your stacking layers in place so they don't shift when closing the press machine in the locked position. Using plates transforms a t-shirt press into a commercial book press. The top plate is optional. For dry mount press machines and swing arm press machines, you will use only a single bottom plate.
Working with different types of metal plates can produce different varying results. Adapt to your local environment and figure what works best for you and the type of work you do on comic books. I typically use 9x12 cold rolled pressed steel plates on most comics. I will switch to aluminum plates when performing stain removal techniques on golden and silver age comics. Aluminum plates can develop lifting pages and covers too - if removed too soon, due to the slower cooldown times. You may have to lower the heat or remove from press machine at a later predetermined time.
If you are tight on money but would like to learn, this is completely understandable. Another thing to consider is to think of your comic book pressing kit as a set of garage tools. It can take a man years to obtain the perfect ideal set of hand tools since they are so expensive. Here is a basic list of tools to get you started on a budget: http://bit.ly/3prjYnG
The Clamshell Press and Swivel Press heat up much faster. The Seal and D&K Dry Mount Press Machines take 5 minutes to reach preset temperature. Use this knowledge to adjust/compensate for recommended start up times and temperatures. You cannot quickpress a 2002-Present modern age book with a Seal or D&K Dry Mount Press Machine unless you preheat the machine first, for example. The Comic Book CPR book was written using a Clamshell Press Machine. All recommended times and temperatures are going to run 10 degrees Fahrenheit higher than a Seal or D&K Dry Mount Press Machine. If the book recommends a temperature of 140F, this is for a clamshell. If you have a Seal or D&K machine use 130F, for example.
Are you using your IR Thermo gun by shining it directly on platen of press machine? This is incorrect because the light waves bounce off the shiny surface of the press machine. Make sure you are using the IR Thermo gun correctly to obtain accurate reading. You have to press a few backer boards for 5 minutes and use gun on non shiny surface of one of the hot boards.
On a new heat press, it is not unusual for the temperature settings to be off by 18 to 20 degrees. To fix this, follow these simple steps:
1. Set the Heat Press temperature settings to 380F on the control panel. (See info on this below)
2. When the press heats to about 100F, press the down arrow on the control panel for 5 seconds. The heat press will go into Calibration Mode. It may take as long as 20 minutes to finish this process. Do not turn off or unplug the press during this time. To ensure total accuracy, you might also want to test the heat press using an Infrared Thermometer Gun. (available at most hardware stores or Amazon.)
Setting the Time and Temperature on your new Heat Press:
1. Using the control panel screen, press the “Set” button then the up or down arrow to the desired temperature.
2. Press the Set button again and set the timer using the up and down arrows.
3. Press the Set button and arrows again to choose Fahrenheit or Celsius.
4. Press the Set button again to confirm these settings.
5. Press the Set button and use arrows one more time to set an alarm that will notify you in advance when it is time to open the press.
Pressing and dry cleaning your book does not use any chemicals or moisture. Only pencil marks and crayon is safely removed from dry cleaning. The heatpress machine and the temperature does not lift sharpie marker or ballpoint pen. Signed or witnessed signature series books are completely safe from ink being lifted during pressing. Paint markers used on signatures cannot be pressed or cleaned due to smearing. Acrylic paint will run all over the book and press machine under heat. Keep in mind unwitnessed signatures will not get a yellow signature series label with CGC or CBCS. Unwitnessed signatures get a verified signature label instead.
Always check your edges. Your top and bottom edge of comic book should be super flat and straight. Make sure your pressing room environment is at 72F room temperature and 45% relative room humidity at all times. If the room temperature drops below 70F, you will have wavy books. If the humidity in the room is too high, books will have lifting corners or other unforeseen side effects.
If you spot flaring or lifting on corners after press, you may need to adjust and lower your recommended temperatures. This could be due to regional differences in humidity and climate where you reside geographically. Or, it could be due to a difference in thermostat settings on your press machine. Too much heat and too long of duration can often cause this effect on pressed comic books so lower all of your settings to achieve more favorable results. If a book gets too hot at a rapid rate and cools down too slowly a book can get lifted corners as well.
You will also be required to keep pressed books in the same conditions as your press room for a minimum of 7 days. After 7 days, perform a reversion inspection to see if there are any indications of defects returning.
Sunken staples are typically caused by the following conditions:
Use the adjustment knob with your main hand, and clamp or handle of press machine with your weak hand. Do this method at the same time with both hands: If you cannot close the press with your weak hand using a limp wrist, it's too much pressure so you slightly back off the adjustment knob with your main hand as you try to close the press with your weak hand. If the press won't close with your weak hand, try backing off the knob a little more counter clockwise each time until it closes with little restraint. Otherwise, you risk crushed staples and spines, or staple rub to the cover. If you can see staple indentations on your exterior paperstock stacking layer, you have used too much pressure. Do not use the adjustment knob while the press is in the closed and locked position. You will strip out the shaft bolt.
Place two magazine backer boards at centerfold instead of a fullback for all large staple pronged comic books.
Do not press comics using only plates. This is not ideal - due to dust and other particles or contaminants in the environment. The plates are sanded down from the machining process and to wipe off lubricants from fabrication. You should still be using an exterior stacking layer for protection against divots, dust, and dirt particles. Use a sheet of 20 lb copy paper on the outside covers of your books. This creates a clean, disposable environment for comics being pressed. The plates are a method of heat transfer, not protection against divots and pebbling.
Comic Book CPR does not recommend reusing any stacking layers except fullbacks. Very prone to dust, hair, and other contaminants getting pressed into your book covers...no matter how clean you think you or your workstation is....The "human element" of this equation is not perfect and will often make mistakes. If you see staple indentations on your exterior stacking layers, or staple push on covers, then you are using too much pressure.
Dent removal should be performed after the first stage of comic book pressing. Tack iron and ball bearing are to be used if a regular pressing didn't work properly. Try a regular press first. If you still aren't satisfied with your results, try the "Ball Bearing and Tack" Method featured in this video: https://youtu.be/Bd5WpGTjiIU
When a comic book features staples that are 1/8" too far inside the spine you will need to perform the "C-Notch" Method to properly press. Instructional video discussing the "C-Notch Method" when pressing comic books with staples placed too far on the inside of spine: https://bit.ly/3gMaZuy
Everything we do is all about "adapting to your local environment". Try lowering the heat by 5 degrees. Sometimes you should check out the relative humidity in your pressing room and inside the humidity tank. You do this by using a hygrometer. (Check recommended products list) Do you need a dehumidifier in your pressing room? Maybe you need a humidifier in your pressing room. How are your books stored? Are they in a climate controlled room at 40% relative humidity and 70-72F room temperature?
Comics are like people. We like to be comfortable. The ideal conditions for pressing comics in your pressing room and storage room for comics are 45% humidity and 72F degrees. These conditions can vary throughout the year as the seasons change. Different heating and air conditioner systems in homes and apartments can change these conditions as well.
Here are some examples of adapting to your local environment:
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